POIPU, Kauai -- Our first evening here, an endangered green sea turle burrowed into the sand of Poipu Beach Park to add to the excitement of an island sunset shimmering in all shades of yellow, orange and red. On our last, an endangered monk seal came to visit --K31, volunteer Donna Gray told me, better known as "Trouble" for his propensity of throwing his 500-pound frame onto several beaches in a single day, sometimes forcing lifeguards to clear the waters to protect him. And so go the rhythms of life on Hawaii's garden island, where the sweet but subtle scent of the plumeria flower hangs over gardens cascading with bouganvillia, hibiscus, tiger lily, ti plant and much more, and white...
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